Seductions of Rice by Jeffrey Alford

Seductions of Rice by Jeffrey Alford

Author:Jeffrey Alford [Alford, Jeffrey and Duguid, Naomi]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Artisan
Published: 2013-02-25T16:00:00+00:00


Grilling mochi near the Imamiya shrine

An offering of mochi to the emperor during the Jidai Matsuri procession

Home-Style Red Rice

two methods

Serves 4 to 6

In Japan, red rice is both simple comfort food and food for celebrations. Red rice is made by cooking sweet sticky rice with red azuki beans. As they cook the beans stain the rice a pinkish red. There are two methods for cooking it. In the first, the two ingredients cook together in water. In the second, the two are steamed together over boiling water after a long preliminary soaking. The first method is quicker, the second more traditional.

Serve red rice in place of plain rice, accompanied by soup and a salad or a vegetable dish.

1 cup Japanese sticky (sweet) rice (mochi gome)

1 cup azuki beans, picked over and rinsed

Water

1 teaspoon salt, plus a pinch

2 to 3 tablespoons dry-roasted sesame seeds (see page 187)

Method one: absorption cooking

Wash the rice well under cold running water, then place in a bowl and soak in 3 cups hot water while you begin preparing the beans.

Place the azuki beans in a large saucepan with 3 cups water and bring to a vigorous boil. Boil for 3 to 5 minutes, then drain. Return the beans to the pot, add 5 cups water, and bring to a boil. Cook at a low boil until tender, about ¼ hours. Add the 1 teaspoon salt, simmer for another 5 minutes, and drain, reserving the cooking water.

Place 1¼ cups reserved cooking water (add water if necessary) in a heavy medium pot or a rice cooker. Drain the rice. If using a pot, bring the liquid to a rapid boil, add the rice and stir, then add the beans and stir. When the liquid is boiling again, cover, lower the heat to medium-low, and let cook for 5 minutes. Lower the heat to very low and cook for 15 minutes. Let stand, covered, for 5 minutes before serving. If using a rice cooker, turn on the cooker, add the rice and beans, and stir well. Place the lid on top and leave to cook. Let stand for 5 minutes before serving.

Meanwhile, place the sesame seeds in a suribachi or mortar with a pinch of salt and grind lightly.

Serve the rice warm. Sprinkle each serving with a little of the toasted sesame seeds, or alternatively, mix 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds into the rice and serve any remaining sesame seeds as a condiment for those who wish to sprinkle it over their rice.

Method two: steaming

Soak the rice and azukis separately overnight in 3 cups water each.

Drain the azukis and save the red soaking water. Place the azukis in a large saucepan with 4 cups water, bring to a boil, and cook for 20 minutes. Drain and set aside.

Meanwhile, drain the rice, pour the reserved red water over and let soak while the azukis cook. When ready to proceed, drain the rice and reserve the red water.

Line a bamboo or other large steamer with muslin or cheesecloth. Place the rice in the steamer, then place the azukis on top.



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